So Mexico started in classic Bremma style. Those of you who follow us on Facebook will have kept-up since the last blog, but for the rest of you, you should click here https://www.facebook.com/TotallyTandem to remedy that immediately. The long and short of it is that we hauled-up in Rosarito, with our new amigo Roberto, for 6 days. We assured the now lame Falkor that a new front wheel would be built to match the strength of the new back wheel, and even made an attempt at crossing back over the border into the States (front wheel in hand) to make our way back to Black Mountain Bicycles in San Diego. Alas, the USA border patrol didn’t find us as charming as we hoped, and after a 4.5 hour wait, we were hastily shooed back into Mexico. The new plan, to get custom spokes sent to us and have Bren re-lace the wheel.
The amazing Matt from Black Mountain Bikes cut all new ‘Wheel Smith’ spokes for our front wheel and sent them to us at Roberto’s house. And we couldn’t have been stuck waiting in a better place. Roberto and his family run THE best fish Taco stand on the coast. They welcomed us into their home and took care of us, even taking us out to celebrate my birthday. We certainly got lucky meeting Roberto on the cyclist website warmshowers.org .We also discovered that up the road from his house, along with a giant Jesus, is a wonderful establishment that allowed us to stroll right in & use their awesome pool & spa set-up, while serving us margaritas by the poolside. We weren’t hating it too much.
And Brendo built his first wheel! What a legend! He laced that baby up good and proper and we are proud to report that no spokes have broken since. Thanks to Matt’s advice, Brendo’s incredible perseverance and a few YouTube clips, our front wheel is totally supersonic. And just in the nick of time too, these Mexican roads have certainly lived up to their reputation. When they are good, they are unbelievably smooth, and when they are bad, they are unbelievably treacherous. Sometimes the shoulder IS the white line, and if you are forced over it, you are dropping a good 60 cm onto rocks and general roadside chaos. But the Baja roads through the desert from El Rosario to Guerrero Negro have been astonishingly good. This is also a lot to do with the courteous drivers in the desert. Almost always the truckers pull right over into the other lane to share the road, while the other drivers only come close because of their exuberant fist-pumping out the window. The drivers in the desert have shown some incredible signs of encouragement with an array of whistles, thumbs up and honking scenarios that have sped us up along some of those hot, steep hills.
Right now, we find ourselves now in a little town called Loreto. We have ridden through incredibly desolate places, faced killer head-winds, been pushed by an immense tail wind to our longest day (148km in 6 hrs), camped in an Oasis, cycled from the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Cortez and swam in The Bay Of Conception. We have eaten well and tried loads of new treats. And my god, we have met some amazing people.
HUGE special thanks to the remarkable people who have graciously hosted us along the Baja Peninsula. It’s been incredible to hear your stories and share your lives for the briefest moments and take refuge in your kindness.
Roberto & family in Rosario: Iain & his daughter Molly in La Fonda: Felipe & Margarita in Ensenada: Duffy in Rosario: Sara & Adolfo in Guerrero Negro: Wendy & Ken in San Lucas: Yvonne, Debbie & Mick and Allie & Weylon in Lorreto.
Sounds like a wonderful adventure!
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